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On
February 16, 2006 (Maui, HI), Maui
Surfer Girls (“MSG”) surf instructors, Andrea
Moller and Maria Souza, along with camp director and founder, Dustin
Tester, became the first women tow-team to drive and surf the thirty-foot
waves of Maui’s worldrenowned “Jaws”. Calling
themselves the “Amazon Surf Team,” these wahine’s
made big wave surfing history.
A LITTLE BACKGROUND
Andrea Moller and Maria Souza are Brazilian waterwomen who have
been training on the island’s outer reefs with Maui’s
own Dustin Tester for the past two years. Maria Souza pioneered
Jaws with ex-husband Laird Hamilton ten years ago.
2006 was the first big wave season that they had
ventured to tow one another into the fearsome break. Carving out
a spot for women in the world
of big wave surfing, the trio has made quite an impression on the
male-dominated lineup at “Jaws” these days. Andrea Moller
remarked, “I definitely note the pressure as a woman, but
I’m just looking for the same thing the guys are – I
want to feel the adrenaline rush out there. Until women break through
the initial barriers, it’ll always be harder...but no less
worth it.”
As big wave riding has previously been a “man’s”
sport, there are those that feel MORE women should be riding these
giants such as Senator Fred Hemmings, the father/founder of professional
surfing, yet as women, most of us are not inclined to do so. Is
it in our nature to want to push the
elements to the point of death? Are we naturally inclined to be
the warriors that men are?
While we at WSSM have our own thoughts on this,
we decided to get an “insiders” peak at what inspired
Dustin to take off on several 25 footers, and what her opinion is
on the future of women in BIG waves.
WSSM:
With the biggest ride of your life behind you, do you feel you will
experience that massive of a wave again and why do/did you crave
it enough to push yourself to that level?
DUSTIN: Tow-surfing is an ultimate expression
of my mind and body. My drive to surf bigger and bigger waves, is
similar to my drive to succeed in life. It's like tapping into that
wellspring of "mana" inside of me.
Each rung up the ladder of wave size instilled awe and respect for
the power of the ocean. As I spent hours practicing pick ups and
drop offs with Andrea Moller, and a regimented cross-training program,
I felt more and more comfortable pushing my limits out there. Yet,
I know my limits and on more than one occasion, I decided not to
tow-in when the conditions weren't ideal.
Surfing a 25 footer at Jaws was the most surreal experience of my
life. I still have an itch inside of me to train hard and be whipped
into more outer reef mackers.
WSSM:
As the owner of MauiSurferGirls, you meet women from all walks of
life and abilities. Do you find that women in general are inclined
to ride waves over 15-18 feet? (Face value) And if not, why is that
in your opinion?
DUSTIN: Hmmm, great question. I don't feel like it's necessarily
a gender thing, but a combination of drive, training, and pure guts.
Yes, I've taught women of all ages and abilities for the past ten
years, and the common thread I've witnessed in women surfers is
our resilient mind, grace, and
guttural instincts innate in women. Sure men are physically stronger,
but big wave surfing is more than just a physical sport.
It's also mental and takes gut instincts. I think with the proper
years of training in big wave conditions, practice like anything
goes beyond gender.
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WSSM:
There are obviously some women that enjoy pushing themselves to
limits that most of us will never know; what do you feel is the
biggest challenge facing these women when attempting to ride 20+
foot waves?
DUSTIN: Actually I had this conversation with Laird over a cup of
coffee at Anthony's in Paia. I asked him what he thought of
Andrea and Maria landing in Surfer
Magazine, surfing Jaws. I think my question caught him off guard,
like he hadn't yet accepted that women are now out there surfing
"his" prized wave. He said in so
many words that women should be able to surf and swim in at least
12 foot faced waves and be calm and capable in those conditions.
I'd have to agree with Laird.
I've only gotten to this level of big wave surfing because I have
surfed on Maui for the past 25 years. And for the past ten of those
years, I've consistently surfed in overhead
winter surf. I've both pushed my limits and learned my limits.
As far as challenges women will face, being too overly confident
with not enough big wave surfing experience. We will be humbled
in big conditions, and quite possibly seriously injured. Do not
take big
wave surfing lightly. All eyes are on us ladies, when we arrive
to surf Jaws. Be prepared and represent!!
WSSM:
What is the best advice you can give women who WILL paddle into
20+ foot surf this winter?
DUSTIN: GO FOR IT and TRUST YOURSELF!!
I love seeing women in a male dominated line up at "Lane's"
on a huge winter day. Once
you paddle into that steep monolith… take a deep breath and
commit whole heartedly! Remember all your success experiences in
big waves and let that confidence surround you like the spray of
that pealin' wave! YEEEHAAWW!
WSSM:
Any training tips you can share for preparation of big wave riding?
DUSTIN: Well I did a crazy regiment of Bikram yoga for like three
months before the big wave season. I'm a big advocate of
yoga as a lifestyle alongside your surfing lifestyle. It gives me
both strength and flexibility.
I'd also suggest a cardio workout to help your lung capacity. But
nothing can replace hours and hours of time spent on the ocean,
surfing big waves!! Good luck
ladies... Let’s train hard and play as hard as the guys do!!
ABOUT
MAUI SURFER GIRLS
Maui Surfer Girls, a.k.a. “MSG”, is a
strong community of water women with a common mission: to share
the stoke of surfing with participants. Maui Surfer Girls has
a variety of surf programs to choose from, including teen camps,
catamaran tours, personalized surfaris, and year-round surf
lessons on Maui’s west shore.
For more information and photos of Maui Surfer Girls and Amazone
Surf Team, visit www.mauisurfergirls.com/gallery/main.
Call Maui Surfer Girls at (808) 280-8165
or contact dustin@mauisurfergirls.com. |
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