MALIBU MUSINGS... By Shelsea Brown

I HEARD THERE WAS GOING TO BE A SWELL AT MALIBU OVER THE WEEKEND and I had to check it out today. On the way there, I thought I probably should've brought my wetsuit. I shrugged it off because it's been around 68-72 degrees - just like back home, over the past few weeks.
I managed to score a sweet spot on the street and parked my car along the fence facing the beach. I rushed to untie my board from my racks, grab my leash, and pulled my rash guard over my head. As soon as I came down the wooden steps leading towards the beach, I could feel that rush of adrenaline and excitement in my stomach knowing that it was going to be a good session.

I finally caught sight of the beach and there it was, nice clean 3-4, occasional 5 ft sets (Hawaiian scale) out at the point, or the farthest break towards the center of the cove. The white wash and foam was all you could see along the shore before the next set rolled in. I strapped my leash to my ankle and paddled my way into the lineup. There were tons of people as usual, with quite a few girls that out including the typical bleached blonde girls who surf really dainty. It felt good to be the only chick out there from Oahu.

The guys were hogging most of the waves… with five guys dropping in on every wave that I tried to paddle for. It was like a zoo out there. I was joking and talking with some of the guys out there, try to warm up to them so they would let me get some waves. Finally, another set rolled in and I paddled my heart out. I took the drop, bottom turned and then it closed out on me.

The next three waves were the same. I decided to sit and chill on the shoulder until a really good one came in. I wanted a few that I could have all to myself.

My friend finally managed to meet up with me in the water shortly after a huge set cleared out the line up and I took the next decent one that came in. I rode it almost all the way in until this jack-ass dropped in on me and then someone dropped in on him. The wave sectioned off and I kicked out and paddled out for another one. I started to get frustrated and cold from the dramatic change in temperature. The water must have dropped from 67 to 63 in a matter of 15 min. My toes were numb and so were my fingers. Damn, I should've brought my wetsuit.

I recognized this guy I met in the water about a month ago who was from Maui. "Hi Maui boy!" I yelled out to him. He waved back and smiled. He saw me start to paddle for the next wave and yelled, "She's got it! She's got it!" All the other guys backed off and I took one more big push through the water and popped up, turned, went down the line and up again. It was awesome! I rode it all the way in. Got a few smiles and nods on the way back out. After that, I didn't have to fight so hard to get another wave. I caught a nice one in too.

After the epic session, my friend and I went to Malibu Inn to have a couple shots of tequila to warm
ourselves up from the chilly water. We laughed
and joked about how nobody has etiquette in the
water and how it's not like "home."
I miss Oahu so much.